Out of the Salon: The Peak District

I'm out of the salon this long weekend for what my friends have been calling my 'Jane Austen vacation.' I will be breezing through the Lake District and then spending a few days in the Peak District. Of course you know this means, Chatsworth! It's been a long five years since I got to visit Georgiana's home and since then the wonderful house had been restored and even had it's own show! I plan on live-tweeting my adventure so I can share it with everyone. Check out my updates via twitter:

Chatsworth Reopens this Weekend after Thorough Cleaning

Going, going, gone!

On 11 March Chatsworth will reopen to begin the 2012 tourist season after extensive restorations.  While Chatsworth has seen many restorations and alterations over the years this £14m project strives to bring the great house back to how it looked when Georgiana's son, Hart lived there in the early 19th century.  The most breath-taking aspect of the project is the restoration of the limescale facade, making the house lighter, brighter, and dare I say, more glorious?  I encourage you to check it out here in the BBC video.

The new, improved facade

Aside from the facade, gilded flames have been added to the roof.  Apparently all those urn sculptures up there were supposed to look like they had eternal flames springing out of them.  It just leaves one to wonder when those flames began disappearing!

One of the other remarkable undertakings has to do with Hart's sculpture gallery.  You may remember this amazing collection from Pride and Prejudice 2005 when Lizzie is viewing marble sculptures and comes across a bust of Mr Darcy.  These have now all been rearranged in the way Hart originally had them.

The new transformation lets guests see just how the 6th Duke lived.  Although Georgiana fans may be disappointed that the restoration didn't aim for just a teensy bit earlier to base the remodeling on, we have to remember Chatsworth was Hart's baby!  Georgiana's fingerprints were on Devonshire House in London which was unfortunately torn down.  Sadly, she did not leave as much of a mark on Chatsworth as her son- who did many wonderful things to the house while preserving its heritage.  The house reopens this Sunday and will be sure to be an even more splendid outing than before- as hard as that is to believe!

Gossip at Chatsworth

Eliza Sheridan was certainly aware of her husband's tendencies to be, oh how do we say this delicately, a slut.  When she first found out about his affair with Fanny Crewe, Eliza threw a fit, but sadly Sheridan was not a man to be controlled and Eliza ended up admitting defeat (although she had her own vengeful affairs).  Her letter to her friend Mary Anne Canning in 1785 is very revealing of for genteel women had to constantly deal with their husband's infidelities:

"S is in Town—and so is Mrs Crewe. I am in the Country and so is Mr Crewe—a very convenient Arrangement, is it not? Oh the Tiddlings and Fiddlings that have been going on at Chatsworth. 'Twas quite a Comedy to see it."

Chatsworth Sale Begins Tomorrow

Are you going?

The Chatsworth Attic Sale is open for viewing starting tomorrow. I can only imagine what amazing things they are selling, although some of the finer items are on display on the site.  After four days of fabulous viewing the auction will be held.  So who is going, and more importantly who is going to take pictures that I can post for everyone to "ooo" and "aww" over?

Chatsworth Garage Sale? Yes Please

I love waking up to good news!  This morning caroline Ing and joana lamas alerted me to the grandest of sales which I think we can all appreciate.  The current Duke and Duchess of Devonshire need to do a little spring cleaning (probably after all those recent renovations) and have commissioned Sotheby's to clean out their attic and auction off a good amount of the treasures they find in there.  This comes right after Georgiana's childhood home Althorp, had their auction.  You, yes you, can now own literally, a piece of Chatsworth.  I say literally because I saw a few door frames in there.  


You can view the lot on 1-4 of October this year and the sale begins after that from 5-7 October.  It even appears that there might be a few Georgiana-related goodies, especially since some of the items are rescued pieces from Devonshire House (Georgie's true haunt).  But for now I will take the tea set.

Sotheby's Upcoming Auctions


BBC News in Pictures: Chatsworth's "attic sale"

Mail Online (which has a lot about how the sale relates to Georgiana)

Matlock Mercury

Where did Lady Abbington Go? Oh. Oh Yes, Nevermind

I must point everyone in the direction of Two Nerdy History Girls today because they have a fun article on bourdaloues. What's a boudaloue you may ask; well just image you are a lady at a fabulous 18th century function and nature calls. Many grand houses were not equipped with the proper plumbing, shall we say, (Chatsworth only had three bathrooms when Georgiana lived there) so it would be a pity to leave a party on account of a full bladder. That's where bourdaloues come in handy, yet they're not just any old chamber pot. But I'll let the history girls give you all the dirty details which can be found here.

A Newer Chatsworth

Georgiana's beautiful home, Chatsworth has been in the news frequently this week. It is reopening its doors for the 2010 season this month. But what is so fabulously wonderful about Chatsworth this season is that it has just undergone a huge face lift. This has been the biggest refurbishment of the house since Georgiana's son, Hart, decided to give the country estate some much needed attention about 200 years ago.

The facade of the house has gotten a good power wash so it should be sparkling clean for its new visitors. I also read on the Chatsworth blog that they reintroduced the dining room table that Hart picked out for the room during his improvements. In addition to the restoration of many rooms, two galleries dedicated to some famous duchesses will be opened. The first is to Deborah, the current Dowager Duchess. The second is to our favourite duchess. Unfortunately, I have attempted to contact Chatsworth to get more details about the new Georgiana Gallery, but to no avail. I will keep you posted if I do find out. In the meantime here are some of the recent Chatsworth articles I have found.

Telegraph

Daily Mail

Telegraph (an interesting article)

The Times

Exciting Business for Chatsworth 2010

For anyone planning any upcoming excursions to Chatsworth, this is the year to do it. As reader, Polonaise pointed out there will be a lecture on our favourite Duchess on April 28. What I would give to be able to attend that! Whats more, Chatsworth is not only opening up a new tour route but a whole gallery dedicated to Georgiana. Swoon. But don't step into your carriages just yet. Chatsworth House does not open until March. In the meantime you can get all excited with updates from the official website and blog.

In the steps of Georgiana

Walking the grounds of Chatsworth with feathered friends

Chatsworth: The State Bedroom and Dressing Room

The imprinted leather wallpaper from the State Music Room continues into the State Bedroom. When the room was originally constructed for a visiting monarch, the first Duke bought a bed fit for a king. At £470, this was the most expensive piece of furniture in the house...and was probably never used either. The bed's amazing canopy now resides at Hardwick Hall and another impressive bed is in its place, so it is unlikely visitors will notice the former's absence. This bed just happens to be the deathbed of King George II who died in 1760. It was a gift to the 4th Duke. It wasn't until 1913 that a monarch finally slept in this monarch's-only, bedchamber: King George V and Queen Mary.

The room is kept very dark to prevent light-damage to the amazing contents. A ceiling mural of the rape of Europa, painted by Peter Lely crowns the elegant room. But what really seems to wow visiotors is the double mirrors which consist of many pieces and are crowned with the first Duke's arms. I attempted to capture these magnificent glass creations many times with my camera but failed due to the lack of light. I'm sure photographs wouldn't do justice to the craftmanship anway.

A door on the far side of the bedroom will take you to the narrow dressing room which offers spectacular views of both the south and west sides. Not much dressing took place in this "closet" but many a duchess found this to be the perfect spot to write their letters. Although the fabulous view would probably distract me.

Chatsworth: The State Music Room

As the name of this room implies, it would appear that this is the room in which to practice music or entertain on the pianoforte. Well, as it turned out, this was never the true intention of the room. Although, I am sure music has graced these walls many times. It is actually more of a dedication to the Cavendish family's traditional love of music. A beautiful working harpsichord draws everyone's attention to the center of the room. But if you just happen to look behind it, there is something more magnificent hiding behind a slightly-ajar door. It is one of the most magnificent and convincing trompe l'oeil's in history: a violin hanging from a door, painted by Jan van der Vaart. When I took my parents on a tour of this home it took me a long time to convince my father that the door was, in fact, a painting.

Another unique aspect of this room is its walls. Once again, you find yourself in a heavily guilded baroque space of ornate wall decor. But upon closer examination, youo may find that the walls are not that same wood found in the other state rooms. In fact, they are not wood paneling at all! The walls are actually stamped and guilded leather. Along the top border you can even find eight small portraits of Hart in this unique medium.

Just an Average Day for Georgiana

The Cavendish clan's life at Devonshire House in London was full of entertaining and one had barely any time to themselves! So part of the year would be spent in their country house, Chatsworth, for a little peace and quiet. Of course their idea of peace and quiet may have been a little different from everyone else's, as James Hare points out in his account of their day in, A Rational Day in the Country:

The Ladies rise from one o'clock to two - breakfast in their own rooms for the convenience of having their hair combed while they drink their tea. Cold meat is brought for the Dogs at the same time. Send messages or (if Time permits) write notes to each other, just to say, "Dearest one, how do oo do?" The usual answer is "As oo do, so does poor little I, by itself . . . I." This delicate complaint of solitude sets the whole house in motion. All the Ladies run from one room to another till they have mustered a sufficient force to venture among the men. . . . they write with the greatest ease and tolerable accuracy long letters on all subjects and to every sort of correspondent, standing, walking and even running, and without the least interruption of conversation, which at Chatsworth never goes beyond a whisper. . . . they take the precaution of beginning them all alike with the general terms of general civility that may apply to anybody, such as "My Dearest most dear ever adored Lord without whom I cannot live - Bess oo."

. . . If by this time it is grown nearly dark and snows and freezes pretty hard, walking is usually proposed. I forgot to observe that when the Ladies first come down to a small Room with a large fire they are wrapped up with furs and waddings of various sorts, but as this heavy "furniture" might impede their agility in walking, they throw it off, and chuse lighter drapery before they venture out - such as gauze or muslin shawls, thin silk sandals, which with the help of a long Pole with a spike in the end of it (to throw over their shoulders or stick into any gentleman's foot who has the honour of accompanying them) form the walking apparatus. The reflection of the snow in the glimmering of the Moon through the trees, if it is a clear night, enables them to find their way round the pleasure ground very tolerably.

. . . When the Dinner has been served up about half an hour they usually retire to dress, and then meet either in the Duchess' or Lady E.F.'s [Bess] room for a quarter of an hour's social talk. At length the female cohort enter the Dining Room. It is difficult to ascertain their exact diet, as it varies according to their health and humours. . . . By the noise and chatting that ensues on their leaving the Dining Room it is concluded that they remain some time in the Drawing Room, but as soon as the Gentlemen come out to Tea and Coffee, each Lady retires to her respective apartment, where to pass the time, for want of anything to do, she goes to sleep. . . . On waking they assemble in one of their rooms, and between eleven and twelve retire to the Music Room and crowd around the Pianoforte that each in her turn may have the pleasure of refusing to sing or play. . . . the moment that [supper] is brought in, everybody hastens to begin the day's amusements and repairs to whist, chess, backgammon, billiards, according to their fancies' direction. In the course of a few hours, the supper being sufficiently cooled, the Duke invites his friends to partake of the genial Board; every one presses eagerly for a place, especially those who do not sup. The Ladies sip by turns cowslip wine, punch, or cherry syrup, take their leave, and spend the remainder of the night in confidential discourse, dividing into small parties of two and three for this purpose, and then leaving the supper room, and separating for the night, as the Housemaids begin to twirl their mops and open the shutters to the sunshine.

[Except taken from Georgiana Duchess of Devonshire by Amanda Foreman]

Chatsworth: The State Drawing Room

After leaving the State Dining Room visitors enter the State Drawing Room. This is one of the smaller of the rooms and has a similar style to previous room with its wood paneling and carvings. However, this room contains a priceless tapestry based off of Raphael's cartoons, which are now housed in the V&A Museum. The tapestry itself dates back to 1635, the original tapestries that the cartoons were made for still hang in the Sistine Chapel.

The ceiling's mural is another Laguerre. In the corner, the adulterous Venus hides in the arms of her Lover, Mars while her husband, Vulcan discovers them from behind the red curtain. You cannot see it in my unfortunate photo, but in the main frame of the mural, Mercury is pointing to the hiding lovers so that everyone, including guests can discover them.

The chairs contained within are coronation chairs of King George III and Queen Charlotte, a gift to the 4th Duke.

Chatsworth: The State Dining Room

Running along the top floor of the south side of the house is the State Rooms. These five apartments were built with the intention of housing a visiting monarch. Indeed, much care went into these lavish rooms in anticipation of the monarch's arrival, by varying dukes through time. All were disappointed, and the apartments wasted for their purpose until Queen Victoria finally fulfilled the rooms' purpose in 1843. By the early 19th century the baroque State Rooms were out of style, and Georgiana's son, Hart found them rather ghastly and a waste of a great view. However, he suspected they could be "a museum for old furniture and a walk in bad weather" so the rooms were spared on his premonition. And thank goodness for that! Today they stand as some of the finest examples of baroque interiors in all of England. The next few entries on Chatsworth will be devoted to these apartments.

The first room guests will happen upon is the State Dining Room. Under 11 foot high doorways they enter into a vast array of wood paneling. Rich reliefs protrude from the wood panels depicting intricate garlands. These garlands consist of wild plants and freshly killed fowl and shellfish; hunting spoils. Yes, I know, decorating your house with dead animals may not be your personal taste but the carving is absolutely exquisite. It reminded me of the themed carvings in and on Amsterdam's Town Hall, one of my favorite buildings in the world. At the end of the room is a massive floor-length mirror which is so clear you feel like Alice entering the looking glass.

The ceiling mural by Verrio is, once again, breath-taking. This shows the Greek gods proclaiming the Golden Age because William and Mary have been named the rulers of England. The first Duke was a big fan of William, and designed these rooms with every intention of William staying there, which of course, he did not. His housekeeper, Mrs. Hackett got in one too many arguments with Verrio and is immortalized in this mural as the haggard fate snipping the threat of life. This is framed with a trompe l'oeil banister so it appears you are looking through the roof into the sky.

Despite King William declining his biggest fan's hospitality, the dinging room, or Great Chamber as it was known until the Victorian age, would be used as a gathering place for guests in the grandest of occasions. There can be no question why. You can spends hours circumnavigating the room and still notice something new every time.

The cross-section above is by Nick McCann

Chatsworth: The Library

Now every grand home needs a library. Chatsworth has a few. This stunning display of books is off-limits to visiting guests and can only be peeked at through the entrance. This Gallery was a ballroom in Georgiana's time but by 1815 her son needed more room for his vast collection of books so he transformed an oddly-lighted ballroom into his new library. The shutters to the windows stay closed now which isn't to make the library cozy-looking but to actually shield the contents from fading. Comfy couches saved from Devonshire House and dim lighting make for an inviting setting for cookies, tea, and a good read. The library holds some impressive volumes like that of Henry Cavendish's scientific research. Hints as to the room's previous life as a room of entertaining is revealed in the ceiling. Among the white and gold molding in roundels are depictions by Antonio Verrio of Apollo, Athena, and Hermes (gods associated with spreading knowledge) with the muses.

At Christmas figures are added to the libary to give the impression of a holiday party. The sight sends you back in time to the exciting parties that Chatsworth once held. One can only imagine the fun had within the gallery walls, the extravagant food, and the scandelous gossip exchanged.

Beyond Limits Video

I wish I could embed this on the blog because it is purely fabulous; a video via The Chatsworth blog about the upcoming Beyond Limits exhibit. Not only can you see all the amazing art Sotheby's has displayed at Chatsworth this year but you get a glimpse inside of the house itself. It's a little more helpful in displaying the house than my blurry tour photos! Go and see what all the fuss is about!

Beyond Limits presented by Sotheby's

Chatsworth: The Oak Room

Impulsive buys. We have all had one, whether it's an expensive pair of shoes or a fancy stereo. Georgiana and William's son, Hart, the Bachelor Duke, was walking down the street one day with his friend when they found themselves in a auction house. Hart ended up buying all they had of a carved oak lot. He writes about how it was an unwise decision to buy so impulsively but the result of this buy can take your breath away.

The dark chocolate colored oak covers every inch of the room. Even the chairs and furniture seemed to have adopted the rich color of the room. The current duchess thinks the room to be bizarre. I believe it to be too beautiful to be bizarre but it is peculiar. The two doors force you to circumnavigate the room to see all it has on display. The two side walls are built to display the blue and white china which has a nice visual effect, standing out from the dark oak. The back wall contains a series of paintings of the family dogs, forming a border along the wall. In the center of the room, four Bernini-esque twisted columns hold the room up and create a central sitting area.

Before Hart got to this room it was a library. Now it would be the perfect place to cozy up with a good book. Complete with a backdoor to the gardens...in case the dogs need to go out, of course.

Chatsworth: The Chapel

The room that has had the least alteration over the years at Chatsworth is the chapel. In this amazing example of baroque architecture Georgiana said her daily prayers to appease her mother. I'm sure the alter has witnessed many desperate prayers for sons. But what an amazing place to say your private prayers in! The walls are covered with cedars carvings and the brushwork of Louis Laguerre. The ceiling, like the one in the great hall, also contains a Laguerre mural. It shows Christ in Glory and is done in muted tones (compared with that of the hall) of brown which compliment the rich reddish tones of the cedar. The centerpiece of the room is the grand altar, carved out of Derbyshire Alabaster. The allegorical figures of Faith and Justice flank a painting of Doubting Thomas at the top of the altar. Exquisitely carved garlands and drapery is part of the sculpture decoration. For the best view of this magnificent stonework there is a cedar balcony on the opposite end of the room. The Cavendish family flag with the heads of three harts hangs on the balcony.

The most breathtaking aspect of the chapels is the how the murals meld with the architecture. The paintings form trompe l'oeil's so it is difficult to determine whether a pillar on the balcony is real or part of the painting. My favourite aspect of the room was groups of angels painted in the corners of the ceiling. They are executed so perfectly that they appear to be sitting on the rafters. Unfortunately photographs are unable to capture this on film and mine are blurry due to lack of flash to protect the amazing artwork. To grasp the full effect of the chapel one must visit it in person. However, I believe in the upcoming movie they depict Georgiana's marriage being in this very chapel (which it wasn't) so it's beauty will hopefully be captured on film.

Chatsworth Exhibit Preview

Cassandra made it to the exhibition on Georgiana at Chatsworth and has been nice enough to share some of her pictures! She apologized for them being slightly blurry but as you can probably tell from my Chatsworth posts, mine are all blurry from my lack of flash as well. I'm actually notoriously anal-retentive when it comes to flash on artwork... But I digress, check out her photos out for a preview and become as jealous as me!

Chatsworth: The Great Dining Room

The most beautiful of the dining rooms at Chatsworth is also the least used. On the walking tour of the house, the dining room takes many visitors breath away but is used for little else. Upon entering the first thing everyone remarks upon is how incredibly large the room is. Baroque details appear in aspects such as the ceiling or picture frame but do not overwhelm. The walls have seen many colors through the years but are now a rich red which matches the carpet. The current duke and duchess picked this silk wallpaper out and I think it does well to emphasize the room's size and majesty. On the walls hangs part of the family's collection of portraits, including some Van Dycks. The light fixtures on the walls come from Devonshire House before it was demolished and now light room for its many visitors. Many yards of fabric drape the floor-length windows. In the center of the room sits the white marble fireplace, flanked by two classic statues. On the mantel sits a gilded mirror that captures the whole room so clearly you could mistake it for a window.